Krakow:
Thursday, November 7



  • Suddenly, Krakow! - hurry, disembark lest train leave for Siberia! - pack mule parade to first hotel, nice, but booked - second hotel, okay, available - breakfast a waste - posters of U.S. cities, nasty tablecloth - AAAAAHHHH, Wade's ill
  • Keep walking to Hotel Pollera - could it be? It is available, at least for one night - lovely, old, clean - sleeeeeeeeep for two hours
  • Shower, change money, find hotel for second night (just in case) - through old streets to Town Square and treasures! - local craft, woodcarvings, amber jewelry, dolls, sweaters, leathercraft - too good to miss - Romanesque-like, handcarved creche, 10 pieces, $24! - buy, buy, buy!


  • A guidebook-inspired lunch at Balaton - beautiful goulash, potato dumpling with meat and cream that fills the entire plate - red and black place settings - first cloth napkins we've seen - wonderful, perfect
  • Walked to ancient Wawel Castle on the Vistula - turn to buy stamps, but walk through a door and startle a guard - drops of rain, first since Atlanta - hurry back - sleeeeeeep another two hours
  • Time to figure out travel logistics - rainy night walk to train station only a few minutes from the Pollera - bus to Auschwitz, when? - train to Budapest, how much? - walk, walk, wet, wet
  • Guidebook again to tell us about Pizzeria Grace - best pizza in months, cold beer and Coke - back to hotel, then out to "Drink Bar" of green granite, brass, ultra-Euro - write these pages there

    Friday, November 8